A post from Lisa about sheep, grottos and Mirto.
Things Sardinian
Well, it was mighty encouraging to take a pleasant ride on our first full day in sunshine without leg warmers. The calming atmosphere of the island seems to stem partly from the aromas, the granite ridges seen in the distance, the snatches of blue sea and the kling-klang of the bells hanging around the necks of grazing sheep.
This trip I vow to sample the Sardinian specialties I missed last time. We walked down to the nearby family-owned grocery and found Mirto, flat, crispy bread, and the flavorful pecorino cheese. Mirto is a fragrantly sweet liquor made from myrtle berries. I’m also keeping my eyes peeled for their specialty honey, containing the unique flavor from bees feasting on local flowering plants. There are other specialties we are not so keen to try. For example, a traditional preparation of veal includes cooking it in the stomach lining with blood of the animal. (Enough said).
There are famous grottos close by on this side of the island. It was a disappointment not to gain entrance into the Grotto di Ispinigoli on our free day as it contains Europe’s largest stalagmite. Even more intriguing was reading a description of another attraction in the cave, the Abyss of Virgins. Local oral history tells that in ancient times young girls were tossed down this abyss in sacrifice. And, when archaeologists checked, human bones and jewelry were found at the bottom.
Besides the grazing sheep, we saw evidence of the other industries of Sardinia; granite and marble extraction and fabrication operations next to farms and country residence hotels tucked away down windy gravel roads for tourists interested in horseback riding, canoeing, hiking, and spelunking.
At Cala Ginepro, we sit at the edge of a mountainous area called the Barbagia. Very old stone structures can be found in the hills, with partial walls and towers dating from the 2nd century, BC. We look forward to seeing more of the hilly area as one of our stages runs through the highest village on the island. Let’s just hope we’re not enveloped in mist and clouds that day.
Great description of sights, sounds, smells. Was as if I was there. Could picture and imagine it all. Jim, looks like you are not the only writer in the family. - Jason (Glenn Bunselmeyer'
s tandem stoker)
Posted by: Jason Bryn | April 12, 2004 at 05:28 PM